After spending a couple of days on the Kinabatangan River we had one more activity planned before we left this area for Danum Valley. During dinner the night before this activity I mentioned it and one of the couples said, “Oh, we’ve been there … it’s interesting.” This wasn’t the most enthusiastic endorsement.
The Gomantong Cave is found in the district of Kinabatangan, within the Gomantong Forest Reserve Class IV. It’s the biggest cave and the chief producer of edible bird’s nest in Sabah. The novel, The Garden of Evening Mists, by Tan Twan Eng, mentioned these nests and before venturing to the cave I was curious about them.
From the outside everything looks fine.
After visiting I can honestly say I will never ever eat one. Our guide said when he was younger he ate the nests. Then when he started taking people on this tour he couldn’t stomach them anymore. So what’s the big turn off?
Even this snake is fleeing the cave.
The smell inside the cave is one thing. It reeks. But I have to say, besides the swiftlets that create these nests, there are two populations inside the caves that ruined the whole experience for me: cockroaches and bats! And I’m not talking about one or two. I’m talking about tons of them. Of course there are other creepy crawlies as well.
There is a wooden walkway that all visitors have to walk on. It feels like you are walking on carpet since it is covered in poop.
And don’t touch the handrails. Not only is it smothered in crap, but all types of bugs are crawling on them, mostly cockroaches. I’m getting grossed out just writing this post and may have to hop in the shower again. Everyone says when you visit don’t wear nice clothes. Now I know why.
However, the gross factor aside, the caves are quite interesting and I’m glad I saw them.
The edible nests are collected and harvested twice a year and the practice dates back approximately to the year 500. Licensed locals climb to the roof of the caves, using
One of the nests
ropes, bamboo poles, and rattan ladders to gather the nests. The collectors ensure that they only take the nests that the young swiftlets have deserted. The Birds’ Nest Ordinance and the Forest Enactment of 1968 protect this area and unlicensed collectors are fined. And a person is always inside the cave guarding it. The guards have to spend ten days at a time inside the caves. They are braver than me. I for one couldn’t wait to get back outside.
Fresh air again!
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Yea, there’s no way. I would be hard pressed to want to go into the bug-filled cave, but you wouldn’t catch me eating a nest a bird was in. I’d probably eat the bugs first.
I did feel a little like Indiana Jones. of course the snake outside would have caused him to run.
Indiana: There’s a big snake in the plane, Jock!
Jock: Oh, that’s just my pet snake Reggie.
Indiana: I hate snakes, Jock! I hate ’em!
Jock: Come on! Show a little backbone, will ya!
Ewwww to eating nests and ewwwww to the creepy crawlies, but love the caves!!! I would love to explore there :). Great shots TBM!!
Explore all you want. I’ll be outside waiting for you.
LOL 🙂
There is no way I would have gone in that cave! I feel creepy just looking at the photos.
BE ENCOURAGED! BE BLESSED!
I’m sorry Francine. I know how you feel.
Oh I adore caves…this was too cool…well everything except the creepy crawlers☺
I’m a sucker for caves. This was the first one with so many bugs though.
Well … at least the pics weren’t too bad.
I didn’t spend a lot of time fussing with the camera to get real close. More of a snap and shoot activity.
I can’t imagine eating nests…brrrrr…but the crawlies are not this creepy as a huge spider would be 😉 Great potos 🙂
I’m curious what the nests taste like. If I remember correctly in the book, they made soup with them.
I have watched it on TV — ewwwww! 😛
Well, you did warn me, but eeewe! 😉
I know!
The creepies are all ok as long as they don’t crawl up your leg or go down the back of your shirt.. great post..
Glad you didn’t mention that right before I went in. Even now I’m all itchy.
I… would not have gone in there, I think. I’m fine with bats, but not so much with the other stuff. But you braved it for us, that’s worth the Victoria Cross (at the very least!) for you 🙂
The thought of eating swift phlegm has never appealed to me either. And I will eat most things.
What if they made bird’s nest cake?
Nooooo…. I want boring, traditional things in my cakes. Fat. Sugar. Chocolate. Crispy bits. Food colouring if need be. Swallow grollies… not so much.
swallow grollies–LOL
Nyargh…! First toilet talk, now this! We must get back to ‘safe’ commenting territory.
huh, I’m at a loss. I guess fart jokes are out as well.
Now it dawns on me… the smell in that cave… THAT WAS YOU, WASN’T IT?!?
Shhhhh! What kind of friend are you! Revealing my secrets to the world.
Yikes…. I’m not doing good with bugs and thingies crawling around… Or flying.
I can handle bats for the most part. In large numbers they freak me out. But bugs…ewwwwwww
Eww. But also, why and how are they edible? They neither look nor sound appealing so there has to be something.
From what I understand, they make a good soup.
Ewww – now I need to take a shower.
extra hot
Fascinating!
Looks like a tough trip, TBM! I think I will be too scared to make it. I don’t have a problem, in principle, with insects and creepy crawlies – I think they have as much right to life as humans and I think they are big fighters for living in hostile environments and making a fist of it – but I would find it extremely difficult to spend time in a place filled with creepy crawlies. Admire you for making the trip.
I’m like you Vishy, I like and respect insects, but being in close proximity is not my usual cup of tea. When on vacation I tend to push myself outside of my box.
i love caves, and your your pictures are wonderful! i’d be willing to put up with the ick factor for the sake of the cave.
This one had plenty of ick factor for me.
And I for one couldn’t go inside! Waaaay too creepy. Your bravery continues to impress me.
I think it helps that I didn’t know too much about it beforehand. Ignorance is bliss.
Yikes!…to the creepy crawlies!
I don’t think I could ever eat a bird nest. It doesn’t sound good at all.
The book made them sound good, but now I’m not so sure.
Cockroaches? NOPE there is no way you go get me into that cave. I will probably be screaming all the time. I can handle the rest of the crawlers but not cockroaches . You’re so brave 🙂
Growing up in California I saw a fair amount of cockroaches. However, I never got used to them.
Very cool photos! I love the millipede. As long as I get to go home to a nice hot shower, I don’t mind hiking around in caves. But I do wonder why one would eat a bird’s nest? We have all sorts of birds on the farm and not one nest is free of bird droppings.
I don’t have an answer for you. bird droppings and the condition of the cave instilled a strong desire never to eat one in my lifetime.
I think I need a shower after that, too! Ewwwww.
I feel for you Patti.
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Yikes!
Reminds me of the time we visited the Batu Caves in Malaysia and experienced over a million bats hovering over our head…and pooping! -T
We went to the Batu Caves as well, but during our visit there weren’t so many bats. I’m not a huge fan of poop or being pooped on so you have my sympathy.
Ah…a Wallet bird’s nest. That’s one expensive item. It’s good for our health.
The cave looks amazing
What does it taste like?
I haven’t tasted it yet…it’s very expensive.
I can see why. Just harvesting it would be difficult.
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